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Probiotic concentrate that counteracts acne bacteria and strengthens the skin barrier.
799 SEKRoutine for acne-prone skin that reduces breakouts, clogged pores and strengthens the skin barrier.
1,468 SEKRoutine that reduces acne breakouts, soothes, and strengthens the skin's microbiome.
2,021 SEK
Azelaic acid and retinoids are two well-studied skincare ingredients with different properties. Azelaic acid can help even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of blemishes and redness, while retinoids can improve skin texture and reduce fine lines. Here we explain how the ingredients work and what they can do for your skin.
What makes azelaic acid particularly exciting is that it occurs naturally in our own ecosystem. The substance can be produced by microorganisms that live on the skin and is also naturally found in grains such as wheat, rye, and barley.
But how does azelaic acid actually work, and who is it suitable for?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid that has been used and studied in skincare and dermatology for several decades.
One of the more interesting discoveries is that azelaic acid can be produced by yeasts from the Malassezia genus, which is a natural part of the skin's microbiome.
The skin's microbiome consists of billions of microorganisms, including bacteria and fungi, that live on the skin's surface. Many of them have important functions and are part of the skin's natural ecosystem.
Researchers began to take an interest in azelaic acid when they investigated why certain yeasts could affect skin pigmentation. It was later discovered that the substance also had other properties that could be useful for the skin.
Today, azelaic acid is used in both cosmetic skincare products and medications for certain skin conditions. The effects depend on, among other factors, the concentration and how the product is formulated.
Azelaic acid is an ingredient with several different properties. It can affect processes that play a role in the development of acne, redness, and uneven skin tone. Here are some of its most important properties.
1. CAN REDUCE ACNE AND CLOGGED PORES
Pimples can develop when sebum and dead skin cells accumulate in the pores. Bacteria and inflammation can also contribute to the development of acne. Azelaic acid has properties that affect several of these processes.
It can help normalize the formation and shedding of skin cells, which may reduce the risk of clogged pores. It also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Therefore, azelaic acid has long been used as an active ingredient in acne medications.
In cosmetic skincare, the ingredient is used in products for skin with acne, uneven texture, and clogged pores, among other things. However, it is important to distinguish between the effects that have been shown for medicines and what can be expected from a cosmetic product.
2. MAY HELP Reduce the appearance of redness
Redness can have many causes. Some people have skin that easily reacts to the weather, temperature changes, or skincare products, while others have a skin condition such as rosacea.
Azelaic acid has been studied for its anti-inflammatory properties and is also used as a medication for certain forms of rosacea. For those with sensitive skin, azelaic acid can be an interesting ingredient, but it is important to remember that even azelaic acid can cause irritation, especially at the beginning.
If you have rosacea or persistent redness, it is a good idea to consult a dermatologist to get the right assessment and treatment.
3. CAN EVEN OUT SKIN TONE AND REDUCE THE VISIBILITY OF DARK SPOTS
Have you noticed that dark marks sometimes remain after a pimple has disappeared? This is because the skin can produce extra pigment in connection with inflammation. The result is darker spots that sometimes linger for a long time.
Azelaic acid can affect the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in the skin's production of the pigment melanin. Through this mechanism, azelaic acid can help even out skin tone and reduce the visibility of certain pigment changes.
The ingredient has also been studied for melasma, a form of pigmentation disorder that often appears on the face. The clinical documentation primarily concerns medicinal preparations and should not be directly extrapolated to cosmetic products.
4. HAS ANTIOXIDANT PROPERTIES
The skin is exposed daily to various stressors that can contribute to oxidative stress. This means that reactive molecules, often called free radicals, affect the structures of the cells.
Research has shown that azelaic acid has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This means, among other things, that the substance can affect certain processes linked to inflammation in the skin.
However, that is not the same as azelaic acid being one of skincare's most powerful antioxidants or being able to prevent skin aging. Its antioxidant properties are rather part of the explanation for why azelaic acid is such an interesting and versatile ingredient.
5. CAN CONTRIBUTE TO A SMOOTHER SKIN TEXTURE
Azelaic acid also affects how skin cells renew and mature. This can help reduce clogged pores and make the skin's surface smoother over time. Unlike classic exfoliating acids, such as AHA and BHA, azelaic acid is not primarily used to remove dead skin cells from the skin's surface.
This does not mean that azelaic acid can never irritate the skin, but its mechanism of action differs from many traditional exfoliating acids.
Azelaic acid may be particularly interesting for you if you have skin with pimples and clogged pores, an uneven skin tone, or dark marks left by pimples.
It may also be relevant for people with sensitive skin who want to use an active ingredient but find that certain other products are too intense.
However, how well the skin tolerates azelaic acid depends on the concentration, the product's other ingredients, and the skin's individual sensitivity.
Azelaic acid in medicinal preparations is generally considered one of the options that may be considered for acne during pregnancy, following an individual assessment.
However, this does not mean that all skincare products containing azelaic acid are automatically suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Other ingredients in the product may affect the assessment.
Please consult a midwife or doctor if you are unsure.
Azelaic acid can be part of both your morning and evening routines, depending on the product you use. If you haven't used the ingredient before, it may be wise to introduce it gradually.
Start with a few applications a week and increase usage if your skin feels comfortable. Always follow the product's recommended use.
A slight tingling sensation may occur, especially at the beginning. If the skin becomes noticeably irritated, red, or starts to sting persistently, you should reduce usage or take a break.
It is also important to be patient. Changes in the appearance of the skin occur gradually and results vary from person to person.
It is a good idea to use sunscreen during the day, especially if you want to reduce the visibility of dark spots. Azelaic acid is not known in itself to increase the skin's sensitivity to light, but UV radiation can contribute to making pigmentation changes more noticeable.
Azelaic acid and retinoids are two groups of ingredients that have been studied for their effects on, among other things, acne and uneven skin tone. They work in different ways and can therefore complement each other.
Azelaic acid is primarily of interest for its properties related to pigmentation, skin renewal, and inflammation. Retinoids are forms of vitamin A that affect the function and renewal of skin cells.
Tretinoin is a form of vitamin A used in prescription medications. It is a well-studied substance but can also cause dryness, flaking, and irritation.
Retinal, also known as retinaldehyde, is another form of vitamin A used in cosmetic skincare. In the skin, retinal can be converted into retinoic acid, the biologically active form of vitamin A.
Retinal has been studied for its effects on the appearance of the skin and has also shown antibacterial properties in laboratory studies.
This does not mean that retinal and tretinoin have the same documented effect. They differ in both their intended use and the scientific evidence supporting them.
Yes, the ingredients can be combined in a well-thought-out formulation.
As they affect the skin in different ways, the combination can be interesting for those looking to address, for example, uneven skin tone, visible acne marks and skin texture.
At the same time, it is important not to use more active ingredients than the skin can tolerate.
Combining ingredients does not automatically mean the result will be better. The formulation, concentrations, and the skin's individual needs play a major role.
In Skinomes Azeretinal Concentrate, 10% azelaic acid is combined with 0.1% retinal.
The idea behind the combination is to bring together two ingredients with different, complementary properties in a single product.
It can be an option for those who want a more concentrated skincare product for the skin's texture and appearance, without having to use several separate products.
Since the product contains retinal, it is important to introduce it gradually and follow the directions for use.
Products containing retinoids should be avoided during pregnancy. If you are breastfeeding, consult your healthcare provider about using retinoids.
SKINOMES PERSPECTIVE
One of the most interesting aspects of azelaic acid is its connection to the microorganisms that live on our skin.
Today we know that the skin does not function in isolation. It interacts with a large number of microorganisms that together form the skin's microbiome.
Azelaic acid is an example of a substance that can be produced by microorganisms and which also has properties that are relevant to skincare.
But the fact that azelaic acid has a natural origin in the skin's microbiome does not automatically mean that the ingredient improves the microbiome's composition or balance. It is still an area where more research is needed.
At Skinome, we are particularly interested in how different ingredients can interact with the skin's microbiome.
In our own clinical study involving 31 participants, we investigated live lactic acid bacteria, known as lactobacilli, both separately and in combination with azelaic acid.
The study was conducted by applying different formulations to opposite sides of the face. The preliminary results showed reduced redness with live lactobacilli and improvements in the assessment of acne severity when lactobacilli were combined with azelaic acid.
The study is stated to be under publication. The results therefore cannot yet be assessed from a completed published scientific article and need to be confirmed in further research.
At Skinome, azelaic acid is available in two products with different formulations.
Contains 10% azelaic acid and is an option for those who want to include the ingredient in their skincare routine.
Combines 10% azelaic acid with 0.1% retinal for those seeking a product with multiple complementary active ingredients.
Which product is best suited depends on your skin's needs, sensitivity, and the other products you use. Skinomes products are cosmetic skincare products, not medicines intended to treat acne or rosacea.
Azelaic acid has properties that can affect clogged pores, bacteria, and inflammation. It is also used as an active ingredient in acne medications. Cosmetic products containing azelaic acid can be used to care for skin prone to blemishes, but should not be equated with medical acne treatment.
Azelaic acid is used in certain medications for rosacea and has documented effects on inflammatory rashes associated with this skin condition. However, cosmetic products containing azelaic acid are not treatments for rosacea. If rosacea is suspected, it is advisable to consult a dermatologist.
Azelaic acid can affect the skin's pigment production and has been studied for, among other things, dark marks after acne and melasma. The extent of the effect one can expect depends on the product's formulation, concentration, and the type of pigment change involved.
Azelaic acid does not work in the same way as classic exfoliating acids such as AHA and BHA. It affects, among other things, the maturation and renewal of skin cells, which can contribute to a smoother skin texture.
Yes, many products containing azelaic acid are designed for regular use. If your skin is sensitive, it is a good idea to start slowly and gradually increase usage according to the product instructions.
A mild stinging or tingling sensation may occur, especially when you first start using azelaic acid. If your skin becomes severely irritated or if the discomfort does not go away, you should discontinue use.
Yes, azelaic acid and retinal can be combined. Both are active ingredients, so it is important to choose a well-formulated product and adjust usage according to your skin's tolerance.
Azelaic acid is listed as Azelaic Acid in the ingredients list, also known as the INCI.
Azelaic acid is a well-studied ingredient with several interesting properties. It can help create a more even skin tone, reduce the appearance of blemishes, and improve the appearance of the skin in cases of various types of unevenness.
Its connection to the microorganisms on our skin also makes it particularly interesting from a biological perspective.
At Skinome, we want to develop skincare based on how the skin actually works. For us, it's not about using as many active ingredients as possible, but about choosing ingredients with a clear purpose and a well-thought-out formulation.
Azelaic acid is an example of how science and an understanding of skin biology can contribute to a more balanced skincare routine.
